Tokyo 東京: Shinjuku Kappo Nakajima 新宿割烹 中嶋 || Shinjuku

Nakajima is possibly the cheapest Michelin-star restaurant in Tokyo's bustling Shinjuku neighbourhood. A very affordable Michelin-star lunch set which costs from 990 yen only. Such a great deal! For many years, Nakajima has been the locals and foreigners favourite in serving good quality foods and best value lunch deals. 
It is only 1-min walk from the Shinjuku-sanchome metro station and is located at the basement. During peak hours or even before the shop opens at 1130, there may be a queue by the street leading down the stairs to the shop. 
*Please note that for kids 6 years old and below are strictly not allowed to be dine-in the shop. 
We reached only after the first batch of customers entered the shop. Therefore, we have to wait for about 40mins until the next seating is available. There are about 10 seats at the counter, a small dining room and a large long table with partitions set up to separate groups of diners. 
The lunch menu here is pretty straight forward as the Iwashi (sardines) is the main star ingredients used in all the dishes served. There are 4 main courses to choose from: 

1. Deep-fried Iwashi (990 yen) with panko breadcrumbs
2. Nizakana Simmered Iwashi (990 yen) in shoyu-based dashi
3. Iwashi Sashimi (990 yen) marinated with sesame and onion
4. Yanagawa Iwashi Nabe (1100 yen) - a casserole dish with deep-fried Iwashi lightly simmered in dashi, topped with eggs and onions. 
All the set comes with pickles, miso soup, tea and rice. The rice is free for the 1st and 2nd bowl while the 3rd bowl will be charge. 
Deep-fried Iwashi with panko breadcrumbs (990 yen). The sardines are lightly battered in panko (breadcrumbs) and then deep fried. The deep fried sardines were so light, crisp and not oily at all. So good!

Seeing every table ordered this Yanagawa Iwashi Nabe (1100 yen) - a casserole dish with deep-fried Iwashi lightly simmered in dashi, topped with eggs and onions. It must be the signature dish of the shop so we had to order this too. The egg was warm, moist and fluffy, eating together with the deep fried sardines was truly amazing. Most importantly, no typical fishy taste for the sardines. 
Rice
Miso Soup
Iwashi Sashimi (990 yen) marinated lightly in sesame and onion, comes with some kombu, a lemon wedge and grated ginger at the side. The raw sardines are sliced up into strips for eating convenience. Never would have thought the raw sardines tasted so good. They can really handle the raw sardines so well that it is so rich yet with no fishy flavour to taste at all. Tasting the sardines at its most natural form and we love it.
Nakajima do serves Kaiseki courses in the evening priced starts from 11,000 yen, but for pure affordability, do visit during lunch hours for more casual lunch sets starts only from 990 yen. 

ごちそうさまでした. Thank you for the foods. Nakajima completely changed our perspective towards sardines other than Spain & Portugal. It definitely reminds us on how delicious the sardines can be eaten in few different ways like raw, deep-fried, simmered or nabe-style.

If you want to taste Iwashi (sardines) in all its glory then I guess you must try out the lunch here at Nakajima when you are in Tokyo. Since they do not take reservation for lunch dining, a queue to be expect for a bit but it is definitely worth a visit. Summer & Autumn is the best time to visit as the sardines is in season. 


Shinjuku Kappo Nakajima 新宿割烹 中嶋
Hours: Tues to Sat 1130-1400, 1730-2100
Sun & Mon is closed. 
Website: Bookings

Visited on 23 March 2024

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